Surfin' USA

There are things in my life I want to do before I die. There are places I want to go and things I want to see, people to meet, events to be around, etc. Surfing was one of those things.

CHECK THAT OFF!

So it's October 7, 2006 and what else would I be doing other than surfing? It's a beautiful day in SoCal and my friend Julius has a board, wet suit, surfing wisdom and more importantly, patience. My friend from Charlotte Kelly was in town before she moves to San Diego ("I don't think anyone really knows what that means"--R.Burgundy) so it worked out that we met up with Julius and his wife in beautiful San Clemente. It's between LA and San Diego south of Laguna Beach (pop fiends) and in Orange County (the OC). The water temperature was 61 degrees in this small ocean town full of color and character.

Imagine meshing the "Bible homes" of "Bible times" (I still say 'big church' too) and the styles of the 70s. You get adobe-like stucco homes with electricity, gas and crazy blinds.

So we set off in the morning around 11 and were suited up and in the water pretty quickly. Julius gave me some pointers and then it was pretty much learn by trying. In my case it was learn by face planting in the sand a number of times. None-the-less, I learned. I wasn't out there shredding and looking like a seasoned pro but I was quite satisfied with my first day's showing. I look forward to many more times in the water. More importantly I need to get a surf rack for my car. (I also need to get Cali plates, a Cali license and a surfboard....but the rack first!)

I can see how people really get into it and I'm excited to add surfing to my list of things I like to do.

Hopefully by the time you come out to LA I will have a better handle on it and we can go.

I hope all is well with those who read this.

ps: about 35 pics on Flick'r courtesy Kelly Moore Photography so check it out